How To Patch Screw Holes In Drywall

I’ve spent years on jobsites with Patch Pros, and if there is one thing I know for sure, it’s that screw holes are the most common “eyesore” in a house. Whether you’re moving art around or dealing with “screw pops” in a new build, getting the patch right is the difference between a wall that looks brand new and one that looks like a DIY disaster.

There are a few different ways to tackle this. Depending on whether you want to save time or save money, I’m going to help you pick the right product and technique for your specific project.

Step 1: Diagnosis (Is it actually a screw hole?)

This sounds obvious, but as a pro, I see people get this wrong all the time. Before you grab the mud, you need to check if you’re dealing with a hole or a screw pop.

• Nail Pops: If it’s an older home, it might be a nail. You can hammer these back in, but as an “overachiever” contractor, I always recommend drilling a new drywall screw about 1 inch above or below the nail to properly secure the board.
• Loose Screws: If a drywaller didn’t sink the screw deep enough during the build, the “head” will eventually pop through the finish.

The Pro Fix: Take a sheetrock knife or a small screwdriver and scrape away the hardened compound around the hole. If the screw is sticking out, drill it in just slightly past the surface of the drywall so it sits in a small “dimple.” Don’t go too far or you’ll break the paper face.

Step 2: Grab the Right Tools

Since we’re patching small holes, you don’t need a massive 12-inch taping knife. You want a putty knife (sometimes called a spackle knife).

If you’re on a tight budget and don’t have any putty knives, grab this kit. It’s the perfect tools you need for filling in minor imperfections on walls. After this, you just need the product!

Tool Size	Best For
1″ Putty Knife	Very tight spots or single screw holes.
1.5″ – 2″ Putty Knife	The “Sweet Spot” for most household patches.
6″ Taping Knife	Use this if you have a cluster of holes close together.

Step 3: Pick Your Product

Not all “mud” is created equal. Here is how I break down the three most common products I use on the job:

1. DAP DryDex (The DIY Favorite)

This is the “pink stuff” that turns white when it’s dry.

• The Best Part: It has a built-in timer. If it’s still pink, don’t touch it. Once it’s white, it’s ready to sand.
• Who it’s for: Homeowners who value convenience and time. This product dries within 5 hours and is the top choice for DIYers.

2. USG All-Purpose Joint Compound (The Versatile Pro Choice)

This is what we use for full-scale taping and finishing, so it’s used for filling in nail holes too.

• The Best Part: You can buy small 3.5-quart containers at the big box stores. It’s smooth and easy to work with.
• The Catch: This product will take overnight to filly dry, and usually requires two coats.

3. Easy Sand “Hot Mud” (Joe’s Top Pick)

This comes in a powder (5, 20, 45, or 90 minute versions) that you mix with water.

• The Best Part: It hardens by a chemical reaction, not just by air-drying. It’s much stronger and shrinks less.
• The Catch: It’s for the pros. If you mix “Easy Sand 5,” you have exactly five minutes to get it on the wall before it turns into a rock. For a beginner, go with Easy Sand 45.

Step 4: The “PB&J” Technique

I tell DIYers all the time: applying compound is no different than making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich; luckily, joint compound is more like peanut butter so it’s easy to smooth.

1. Load the Knife: Pick up a small amount of compound on the corner of your putty knife—slightly more than the amount of toothpaste you’d put on a toothbrush.
2. Fill the Hole: Press the mud directly into the hole. You want to make sure the “dimple” is fully packed.
3. The “Wipe”: Scrape away the excess mud by pulling the flat edge of your knife over the surface. The goal is to leave the hole filled but the surrounding wall clean.
4. Dry & Sand: Let it dry completely. If you used All-Purpose mud, it might shrink slightly, and you’ll need a second “skim” coat. Once dry, give it a very light sand with a fine-grit sponge.

Conclusion

Patching screw holes is a basic skill, but doing it correctly will save you hours of frustration when it comes time to paint. If you’ve followed this guide and your walls still look a bit “off,” it might be a texture issue. You can use my AI Texture Identifier to see if you need to add an Orange Peel or Knockdown finish to match the rest of your wall.

Did this help you fix your wall? Let me know in the comments below, or if you’re stuck, use the “Ask Joe” form at the bottom of this page!